Rules of the Road

I have no documentation of the worst of the traffic because I'm usually so scared I have my eyes closed.

For the past two weeks I’ve tried to figure out how to explain the traffic here.  Sichuan University’s main campus, where I’m staying, is situated in the middle of Chengdu, a large city.  It is bounded by several major roads, and so any time I need to go to a bigger market or a restaurant or café, I have to face the traffic.  I’ve also ridden in a variety of vehicles including small cars, minivans, and taxis.  From a distance the traffic flow seems to be normal, but up close, it is more like terrifying.  On Friday I was so scared during 20 minute taxi ride out to Ikea I spent the entire ride with my eyes closed.  At one point the driver passed two cars who were in adjoining lanes, complete with lane lines, by squeezing BETWEEN the two vehicles, riding the dotted white line.  Ugh.

Finally yesterday my friend Olivia, a veteran world traveler, offered this description of the traffic phenomenon:

When you're in a car, does it feel like everyone is just trying to make space for themselves? Kinda like a swirling school of fish?

I think this is an excellent description.  Imagine a school of fish that is all clumped together swirling around, but somehow manages to move forward.  You never quite know how they figure out how they fit together, but somehow they do.  That is how it feels, especially in the middle of an intersection.  There is a kind of order that makes sense, but out of nowhere someone will back up, or go around someone else, and abruptly change direction.  Occasionally a vehicle will just decide to go against traffic.  And in the midst of all of this are a billion motorcycles, scooters, bicycles, pedi-cabs, and pedestrians of all ages and agility levels.  To add to all of this visual sensation are the endless  din of car horns going off all the time.  Drivers honk all the time – not just to jar someone in front of you to move when the light is green.  No, they honk to tell all the cars, bikes, that they are there and to watch out. 

The only rule of the road I have successfully figured out is this:  pedestrians never, never, never, never have the right of way.  Never.  At the same time, it was also described to me that everyone, drivers and pedestrians alike, has to be selfish, or they will never get anywhere.  Waiting patiently to take your turn will not pay off.  It will just leave you motionless forever. 

When I’m on my own trying to get places, my strategy has been to find some other pedestrians crossing an intersection and follow closely behind them.  I’m betting on two things:  that they are natives and understand the rules of the road that I can’t  figure out; and that if I keep just behind them if an accident happens they’ll get hit but I’ll have time to move out of the way.  Remember – the key is to be selfish and think only about your survival.  I guess I learned something.